Problems are easier to avoid before payment than to resolve afterwards. Verify the documents and condition independently and use any available history sources from the car's country of origin. This checklist supports steps 3 and 4 of the complete buying guide.
1. Seller and documents (do this first)
- Seller's ID matches the name on the keuringskaart, see the keuring guide for what that card is
- Signed kwitantie available at sale, with VIN, price and both names
- Road tax paid for the current period (windshield sticker)
- Import/customs papers or original foreign title present, for US imports, ask directly whether the title was salvage or rebuilt, and check the VIN via a US history service (e.g. NMVTIS) before viewing
- Maintenance records: even partial history beats none
Red flag: any seller who cannot produce the keuringskaart or refuses a written receipt. Walk away.
2. Body and corrosion (island-specific)
- Inspect wheel arches, sills, door bottoms, tailgate edges and the underbody for rust, especially on cars used or stored near the coast
- Check panel gaps and paint texture differences: signs of accident repair
- Look under carpets and in the spare-wheel well for water stains, mud residue or mold, classic flood-damage evidence on hurricane-zone imports
- A musty interior smell that air freshener cannot mask is a warning sign
3. Tires, brakes, suspension, steering
- Tire tread even across the width? Uneven wear suggests alignment or suspension issues
- All four tires the same brand/type and not aged out (check the DOT date code)
- Push down each corner: the car should rebound once, not bounce, worn shocks are common on speed-bump-heavy roads
- On the test drive: brakes pull straight, no grinding; steering centered, no play or knocking over bumps
4. Engine, transmission, cooling
- Cold start: listen for rattles, note persistent smoke after warm-up and check warning lights. A mechanic should diagnose the cause; smoke colour alone is not conclusive.
- Oil cap and dipstick: creamy residue can indicate coolant contamination but short-trip condensation can look similar; have it diagnosed.
- Cooling system matters double in a tropical climate: check coolant level and color, watch the temperature gauge the entire test drive, and reject any car that runs hot
- Automatic transmission: shifts smooth and prompt, no flaring or clunks; manual: clutch bites at normal pedal height
5. Air conditioning and electronics
- Confirm the AC blows consistently cold during the test drive and that fan speeds and controls work. Ask a specialist to diagnose weak cooling before purchase.
- Test every window, lock, mirror, light, wiper and the horn
- Erratic electronics (flickering dash, intermittent failures) can signal flood damage
6. Test drive (at least 15-20 minutes)
Drive long enough for the car to reach normal operating temperature and include varied speeds, turns, braking and uneven surfaces where safe and legal. Listen with the radio off and watch the temperature gauge.
7. Independent inspection
Even after a clean self-check, have an independent mechanic inspect the car before paying. A valid government card is not a warranty of overall mechanical condition.
8. Negotiation, payment, handover
- Use defects found as negotiation points; compare prices on Merkado
- Pay by bank transfer where possible; if cash, at a bank, against a signed kwitantie
- Exchange payment and documents at the same moment; collect all keys
- Then complete the transfer immediately, follow the ownership transfer guide, and arrange insurance via the insurance guide
